A note on bleeding.

Have your helper pump pump pump pump pump pump pump, and then hold pedal to the floor. Then you open the valve and close it again. Then repeat process. As long as you are getting some fluid out of the valve, even if it's just a dribble, keep at it.

Go from RR, to LR, to RF and finally LF. LF usually has a whole lotta air, due to the angle of the brake line causing an air pocket. Repeat sequence until you have a solid pedal, and solid streams of brake fluid from the valves. (No air bubbles, or hiss.) Your pedal pumper will tell you when the pedal feels solid.

Another point to ponder. You must make sure the pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder is adjusted to the proper length. Too short and the brake pedal will go to the floor, even with the brakes adjusted properly at the wheels. Too long and the brakes will lock on. A perfect adjustment is about an inch of play in the pedal with all four brakes adjusted. But beware! New master cylinders are notorious for showing a low pedal. After driving the car around for awhile, the pedal will continue to rise until all play is gone and the brakes lock up. The only fix is to shorten the length of the pushrod on the side of the road, so be sure there's a reasonable amount of pedal play initially. You can always readjust later. 

Last Edited By: Doctor Herbie 08/27/15 05:00 PM. Edited 2 times.